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How to repair the washing machine

At operation of any equipment, especially difficult, there are incidents, they not always happen pleasant. Unfortunately, whatever there was a reliable and proved equipment, it all the same has property sometimes to refuse.

The probability of breakage is reduced if you chose equipment proved as reliable and decent producer. But, as a rule, this factor affects only the initial stage of service of the device. I.e. the producer makes slips at production which are shown during a warranty period less often. It in a case with the washing machine too is good because though repair on a guarantee and is free (if the producer is guilty), but here delivery to a place of repair are problems of the buyer. And here not only it is necessary to spend for delivery, but also to sweat in attempts to inform this car to the car, and it not easy very. The most interesting begins in the course of long operation. But here it is possible to go on two ways. The first idle time – not to bring to the fact of long operation. This way is good when you can financially afford frequent updatings of equipment, love new things and are ready to be engaged in the manipulations connected with replacement of this equipment. Otherwise you need to support "health" of the equipment as it is possible is the second way more long that it served faithfully. And I not for nothing applied the word "health" since here one of the main medical postulates acts: better prevention, than treatment. Here also we will begin with it, though it is necessary to treat, quite perhaps, too sooner or later.

Prevention of "diseases"

That your favourite assistant a stiralka did not "get sick", you can undertake a number of simple operations which will not take away from you a lot of time. And it is necessary to begin with purity of the car directing purity. First, it is esthetically pleasant, when your equipment pure. Secondly, purity guarantees lack of zasor, jammings, additional wear due to the increased friction about mechanical particles of pollution. Do not perceive purity only rubbing outside, though such cleaning should be made regularly. We will understand the wide range of actions which is carried out with a certain frequency as cleaning. So, what we will clean?

In principle, not and there are a lot of places and not so often it is required to be carried out. Here the approximate list of places of cleaning which are desirable for cleaning after each washing:

  1. Tray under detergents. In it after washing there are powder remains which expand and turn over time into stalagmite which can interfere with normal washing off of powder. And also can hammer an opening which conducts water with detergent in a car tank (it, of course, an extreme and improbable case, but after all). Worse that without washing of a tray, in it besides powder microorganisms start developing and appears a certain raid (here on a photo traces of the raid which is not deleted by simple means are already visible), a crust perhaps it is already unpleasant. Therefore simply rinse a tray with warm water (the tray is rather easily taken from the car and it is made not for nothing).

  2. The similar picture with the advent of bacteria occurs in a rubber sealant between a door and a drum. It also should be cleared and wiped dry after each washing. Pay attention that in a place where this sealant is in contact with a drum, on a sealant there is a fold if to remove it, there you too will find dirt which should be deleted.

  3. And the last "lush" place – the pump which is pumping out water from a tank.

    It is below, as a rule, behind the removable panel, or behind a door (read in the instruction to the car). The panel is removed or the door opens, the panel is substituted (in a case with the panel) or the basin (in a case with a door), is turned off a stopper and water merges. We see such picture on a stopper.

    The stopper is cleared, and also the cavity of the pump is checked by a finger for existence of foreign subjects which you forgot to take from clothes or which buttons came off clothes, for example.

    The pump is made so that it is difficult to break it because shovels of a krylchatka are made of soft plastic compound and it does not break from blows about subjects. And the electric motor of the pump does not get jammed even then when jammed a krylchatka, for example, because of winding on it of threads, hair, etc. of pollution. The matter is that the krylchatka is connected to the electric motor via the magnetic coupling and has no direct mechanical link. It does knot almost impregnable – and the engine will not burn down since it cannot be jammed unless only he will jam because of internal malfunction, and its guaranteed tightness is provided – water will not get into the motor. However, in case of jamming of a krylchatka, water will not be pumped out from a tank, you should merge it manually. If it occurs, it is simpler and safer to make it through a door. Switch-off the machine from a network, incline it a door up (not obligatory to put it on a back wall) and open a door. Further take linen and take out water so much, how many will be able. Water, of course, remains in a tank, but it is significantly less. Merge the remains through the hose lowered in a basin. In this occupation you need the assistant.

Let's return to cleaning of the pump – not obligatory to make this operation after each washing, will enough carry out it after 5-7 washings.

And now we will look that it will be required to make periodically with much more wide intervals:

  1. Audit and if necessary, cleaning of the sewerage from the car. The water merged by car in the sewerage is mechanically pure and has, as a rule, no fat therefore often pipes do not get littered. Therefore will be to examine a condition of times in 2-3 years enough, and it is possible less often (you with ease define it after the first survey).
  2. On an entrance of a water hose to the car, in the car there is a filter, and also there is a filter in a hose on the party of its accession to the crane. Remove a hose (do not forget to close the crane!) also examine these filters. If water dirty, adjournment of particles of a rust and other impurity is possible there, clear if such takes place to be. This operation too can be performed very seldom. Still taking an opportunity, examine also a hose, whether there are no cracks on it even if small if there are damages, consider a question of change of a hose.

Here, actually, and all operations of cleaning which can be carried out without special problems but which will help to avoid emergence of these problems in the future. Now we will pass to "treatment".

What part of repair of the washing machine we can make the hands? It is not a lot of, of course, because it will be possible to repair electronics or to rewind in house conditions the electric motor to you hardly, if you, of course, not the professional in these questions. But something can be made. Let's sort it on symptoms and the treatments methods.

Opening will be required!

Yes, exactly as it is told in heading, for the majority of these works it is already necessary to open the case of the car and to get into its subsoil. Do not forget that during any such works, the car has to be completely disconnected, i.e. its plug fork is taken from the socket, and the crane of water supply is blocked.

Let's start analysis of situations and cars.

Through some time (most likely, it will be in some years) you started paying attention that the cycle of the car is tightened, and it publishes where bigger noise, than was earlier. The matter is that at water there is a rigidity and since unboiled water, when heating, especially if you often use the high-temperature modes of washing, temporary rigidity is eliminated also everything that was eliminated from water, passes to your car. First of all TEN (the Tubular Electric heater) as the "hottest" subject suffers. On it first of all the scum is also postponed, suffer as well those details which are in close proximity. And it, as a rule, the thermal sensor which registers water temperature in a tank. And here that results from it. On TENE and on a surface of the thermal sensor there is a scum film, over time she is condensed and becomes more fat. Heat conductivity is broken, TEN loses efficiency, its internal temperature increases that reduces its resource. Similarly heat conductivity and the thermal sensor decreases, only here in the opposite direction – transfer of heat from water to the sensor via its case worsens. Thereof the sensor starts registering the incorrect temperature (underestimates it) rather it is late. Therefore washing proceeds more time, than it was earlier, there are characteristic sounds, hissings. However, be not afraid, advertizing exaggerates, and the drum will not jam about a tank, but sooner or later the scum will make washing very long, and then and will put ahead of schedule TEN out of action. Therefore it is necessary to fight, without waiting for it. But before this fight nevertheless we will return to prevention. Here we missed one more preventive measure – to add special means which interfere with scaling when washing. There are they separately, and is as a part of powders. As to use them you, of course, will find in their description, but, as a rule, they need to be applied at each washing, differently this prophylactic will be inefficient. Especially it is actual if water in your region very rigid it is easy to define at teapot boiling. The hard case if after boiling water reminds milk is excessively hard water and it is beyond the reasonable. And also high rigidity if the teapot quickly grows with a scum. In such cases use of the specified means is simply vital. And in the first case with formation of "milk" so, in my opinion, still it is necessary to increase a dosage. By the way, in hard water you will need more powder.

But sooner or later, despite all wonderful additives, a scum will overcome also your car therefore when such came, we will start its removal. And it is possible to remove it only physically (mechanically), and for this purpose it is necessary to get into a tank. On the same example we will study as it is possible to replace the failed TEN, the thermal sensor and a driving belt.

A lot of things depend on a design of your car therefore it is not necessary to consider this article as absolutely exact instruction, but in general many cars repeat this design and it is possible to guess how to make in your case. Here, however, to read the instruction it is useless unless it will be possible for your model to find service manual in the Internet, there it is described in detail how to sort this or that knot. This example is based on the car of Ariston firm ©, a design at cars of this producer almost identical on all ruler. But here approximately TENA design from back part of a tank so looks.

For a start we uncover, i.e. we get access to interiors. In this example to work, of course, not so that it is comfortable, but it is quite possible. Further the driving belt is accurately removed (if the car with the direct drive, a belt can not appear, the engine directly on a drum shaft there). It is simpler to remove it from an engine pulley since he small diameter also acts from it with smaller effort at first. We look, whether it will be possible to remove a belt, the design elements which are not allowing it often meet. In our action it is not required to delete a belt (enough to take him aside that it did not prevent to make manipulation though as you will see one photo below, the belt after all is taken off), and here in case of need its changes when on it works are and are complete, the belt should be deleted. More true not so much a problem to remove it (it is possible and to cut off a knife that is frequent and it is not required, when the reason of its change – break), how many a problem to dress the new. Remember as it stood just in case (if it was not torn off before). Relative positioning of shaft of the engine and drum not essentially. Can check smoothness of the course of a drum and engine having rotated their pulleys.

Then we remove all "counters" from TENA sockets and the thermal sensor, we turn off (we remove a socket counter) grounding of TENA. Here we need a sheet of paper and a pencil to sketch connection of conducting not to mix a wire then at connection.

Further we turn off the nut attracting a design of TENA and we remove a bracket is the simplest. Further it is more difficult. Try not to miss TENA design in a tank, then the task will be very difficult, it is necessary to disassemble all car to get in a tank (in this case, however, you will be able to clear all car, but before it is not necessary to lead up). Therefore it is very accurately pressed on a design and utaplivay TEN, holding for a carving (and once again I will remind – do not miss, this design fails in a tank freely). And here we approach the most difficult manipulation in this operation – to extraction of TENA. The matter is that in order that water from a tank did not leave this tank, on TEN rubber conic laying is established. Naturally, it by the size is more, than a conclusion opening from wires.

Of course, there are no problems to remove TEN from a tank, but there are many problems on dismantling of all car. Therefore we will apply a Kama Sutra and to try to pull out after all, remembering that it is necessary to establish into place. At first having drowned TEN look at a design of this knot (the benefit, it you can make, having looked at its photo in this article and to orient). It will give you information on a way of dismantle. Further by tests and, save God, mistakes, we try to find a tilt angle at which it will pass. From a certain attempt and a certain persistence of you (only do not become hysterical, differently TEN will appear in a tank if were tired - return it on a place and having dressed a level, acquire a nut), he has to obey and appear at you in hands.

Throughout everything it is simple, we take a brush with a rigid bristle (or a metal economic sponge) and we clear TENA surface of a scum. Not all surface, because the latest layer which is closer to TENA body, the most dense can be cleared. Here or accurately to scrape, or to apply a chemical way of cleaning. We take hot water (not warm, and almost boiled water), we dissolve in it acetic acid of initial concentration of 70% so that concentration about 20-30% (i.e. we dilute 1 part of vinegar with about 4-3 parts of water) turned out and then we lower TEN in this solution, we allow to react 10-20 minutes. It is possible to control process visually if the surface became pure, we finish operation. Then we wash out in warm or hot flowing water. If not all scum was removed, we repeat procedure of mechanical cleaning – the scum has to appear more pliable. After that we carry out similar procedure of cleaning of the case of the thermal sensor. And having cleared them, we carry out visual control of a condition of a surface of TENA and the sensor, whether there are no rust traces. If there are these traces, life of TENA will be short, sooner or later corrosion will become through, and the internal cavity will be filled with water, there will be a short circuit and its exit out of operation. If already there are hints on through corrosion (very deep sinks which, by the way, arise because of cavitation at a separation of vials of air), it is necessary to become interested in a question of change of TENA. As you understand, procedure of change is already considered, you only take out old TEN, and establish the new. Similarly the sensor changes.

Upon termination of procedure of cleaning the following look is received.

At the TENA installation into place, again it is necessary to conjure with selection of situation in which it will take place in a tank. Having established it into place, do not tighten strongly a nut – squeeze out a rubber sealant, after a broach check, it did not vspuchitsya and whether it was jammed. Connect, without having mixed a wire, and assemble the car.

And happens, there is one more very unpleasant situation, especially to cars which the direct drive – when washing have scratches and knock. And, the further, the bigger sound effect. But sooner or later this effect will arise by any car since the drum has only one points of support about a tank, in front it is free. Then, as the imbalance at it is great and vibrations appear the very strong.

It, most likely, the drum bearing failed.

The matter is that in order that through a shaft of a drum there did not pass water outside, the epiploon (cuff) is established.

Over time it wears out and starts passing water, the bearing rusts and fails, starts creaking. On operating experience of Ariston cars, I can tell that in the majority they fulfill reliably for 5 and more years without the need for carrying out this work.

It is logical to assume to prolong life to the car with such problem, it is necessary to replace not only the failed bearing, but also a worn-out epiploon which led to these consequences. Here two options: or you give the car to a workshop and spend for its repair nearly a half of its cost in a new state (or perhaps it is worth buying simply new in this case, and old to sell on cheap stuff); or you repair with smaller investments of money, but with bigger labor input.

So, we will try to repair independently, and to buy the new car we will always be in time, the benefit many offer free shipping and even drift to the apartment. Then, as in case of repair in a workshop, costs of delivery in a workshop will also back lay down on your shoulders.

Here at once I will tell that for carrying out this procedure, you will need to disassemble completely the car with extraction of a tank and dismantling it on part.

When dismantling remember, and write down better as it was collected where and as wires, sockets were connected (sockets can appear or identical, or without keys, then mark them), do not lose fixture. You can look for a technique of dismantling of your type of the car on the Internet or can guess, in principle, there is nothing difficult since everything is reduced to dismantling of the case (removal of panels), extraction of a tank from a framework, dismantlings of a tank.

At removal of panels (having removed previously hinged elements), do not forget to separate accurately a tank sealant from the forward panel.

Having sorted a tank and having taken out a drum, we examine a condition of an epiploon.

We are excited by its working surface which adjoins to a drum shaft. Having attentively examined, it is possible to see, whether there are damages and a gap. Having removed an epiploon, we examine the bearing if you truly established disease symptoms (a scratch at rotation of the drum), the bearing will be with signs of corrosion and by hand will difficult rotate or will not be turned at all. Take the bearing by methods available to you. It is made or culturally and safely by means of a stripper of bearings, or, in case of that absence, an old antiquated way - a hammer and a drift of make-shifts. If plan to apply the second way, be accurate, do not damage a landing opening. Besides, there are tanks from plastic, for example, as is shown on a photo slightly above, and it is required to beat out very carefully since it can burst. It is necessary to beat evenly that did not warp the bearing. And when it will appear at you in hands, do not hurry to send it together with an epiploon to a garbage can, with them we still should live some time. They are necessary to us for an example to buy the new. I will afflict: most likely, you will find an epiploon only in specialized shop of spare parts for washing machines or in service center if those are available in your settlement and it will cost some hundreds of rubles. If those are not available, it is necessary to look for in online stores and to add still delivery. But begin with search of similar epiploons because their standard sizes are, as a rule, universal, it to you will manage much cheaper. With the bearing it is simpler – we look for shop of bearings and we go with old there, to you select suitable analog. At once I will tell that it is better to choose bearings with plastic protective plates on a separator, but not with metal – they and better constrain more corrosion-resistant from hit of water in the bearing. Running forward, I will tell if such plate only on the one hand (and it is quite admissible), is required to install the bearing by this plate to an epiploon, i.e. in a tank since water exactly from there will potentially arrive.

As soon as you seized new spare parts, we start assembly. For this purpose we grease the new bearing with jellied greasing if it is not greased, do not fill a full separator. Bearings with two protective plates are greased at plant and do not need additional greasing. Then we grease with jellied greasing, very thin layer, an external ring of the bearing (a landing surface). If we have opportunity, we put the bearing in the freezer and we wait for its frost penetration (not to allow mutually pollution, we put it previously in a package). As soon as the bearing froze, evenly we heat a landing opening the hair dryer. These actions are required for simplification of landing since the bearing when cooling will become slightly smaller diameter, and the landing opening of a tank when heating slightly will extend. Then, without wasting time, we begin a press fitting, evenly tapping, without application of excessive efforts. As soon as the bearing took the place, we check its freedom of the course.

We start an epiploon press fitting. Grease an epiploon spring with jellied greasing (do not arrive as with porridge – a lot of oil is not necessary). By the way, you did not forget to remember or write down, by what party it was established? Most likely, a spring outside (to the opposite side from tank interiors), differently the term of its work would be minimum.

The epiploon is pressed a little easier. But do not forget to prepare before it dense soap solution (it is not necessary to apply elite grades of soap, it is quite enough economic), with which you will grease a seat of an epiploon and its working surface already at installation of a drum. The matter is that "zazhevyvat" rubber on the dry and the epiploon is established incorrectly. After an epiploon press fitting, it is possible to start assembly in the return sequence. Thus clear all pollution and remove a scum with TENA. At assembly of halves of a tank pay attention to a condition of laying, if necessary grease with sealant, sealant has to be waterproof and sanitary, its color does not matter. If you applied sealant, after assembly of the car leave it without test drive at least 2-3 hours, and leave her alone for days better (to you was impatient not edge to erase). At commission of test drive it is better to make it without linen. At emergence of suspicious scratches and knocks, switch off the car.

I will tell you, readers Mirsovetov that this most dangerous action with change of bearings. It is necessary to realize that in case of destruction of bearing knot, the drum will leave the normal situation and will start beating. It can lead to sad consequences not only for the car (and it guarantees its breakdown), and and for your apartment because the tank can be punched and water will get on a floor, and TEN is destroyed with formation of short circuit. Besides, you at manipulations can not notice details small at first sight and damage them that will cause inadequate operation of the machine, for example, water will be infinitely filled or TEN will join without water.

Therefore I call you for a soizmereniye of the opportunities and abilities with complexity of this work, put it not the comic!

Even from available works it is possible to replace the pump assembled. It is from below as you remember, we cleared his cavity. For its change it is necessary to get to it access, to remove hoses and to turn off it, and then to establish the new.

Good luck to you under repair, long life to your washing machine!

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