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Councils for photography in tours

If you like to go to have a rest somewhere, you, most likely, take with yourself the camera. It is necessary to learn to do picturesque pictures at which viewing you every time will have warm memoirs. In this article also we will talk how it is better to photograph in trips and that for this purpose is necessary.
If you like to go to have a rest somewhere, you, most likely, take with yourself the camera. And actually, what trip will do without it. The finished shooting photographic material remains memory of pleasantly spent time. But here is how it is even more pleasant to make? And it is very simple! It is necessary to learn to do picturesque pictures at which viewing you every time will have warm memoirs.
Советы по фотографированию в турпоездках
In this article also we will talk how it is better to photograph in trips and that for this purpose is necessary.

The list of things – to learn by heart!

The photoshoot can not take place because of banal forgetfulness. For example, you left at home the camera. Horror! Thus to you will be oh, as offensively. That to forget nothing, we will consider, and that to be useful to us on a trip.
Фотонабор для турпоездки
It is not difficult to guess that the main thing to take the camera. But it not all! You still need the following:
- batteries of the suitable size in number of several sets. Consider that batteries can be bought, of course, but it is problematic to make, for example, in the wood. If you already well mastered the device, already without problems will orient, how many to take sets, proceeding from "gluttony" of the device;
- if you the happy owner of the device on accumulators, surely take with yourself the charger to it. But there can be a problem since in some countries not 220 V. V network it is not present anything terrible since practically all modern chargers can be powered tension from 110 to 240 V and frequency both 50, and 60 Hz. For example, in the USA a network of 60 Hz, and at us 50 Hz. But in this case you need the adapter of a plug fork since the usual fork in the specified networks will not approach. Some chargers of cameras on this case have the second network cord.
And if trip distant where there is no access to the power supply network, also the second accumulator does not prevent. It also is very convenient since time is not always enough to charge the only accumulator;
- depending on trip duration (both on time, and on distance) it is necessary also to stock up with necessary quantity of data carriers of the necessary volume (will tell about their choice of in the following article).
These are the main components. And here that will not prevent to take yet.
It will be better if your device "lives" in a bag of the suitable size. And on a case of rainfall it is necessary to take care of a simple bagatelle – a plastic bag which will rescue your device in that case from many troubles.
Will also not prevent to take a conditioning agent behind a lens, but it only as a last resort.
The extremely useful can appear ultra-violet (UF) or as it is called still, the UV filter. It is especially actual, if at your device plastic lenses. The matter is that when shooting outdoors where there are a lot of UV rays, the image can turn out indistinct and with double contours, as if with shadows. It is connected, first of all, with effect of refraction of beams about what spoke in article about a choice of lenses. Besides, such filter will help to remove, without being afraid to damage or soil a lens lens. To clear the filter where it is simpler and safer, than a lens, not to mention damage of the last.
But it is alas possible not on all devices since many of them do not mean use of light filters and other nozzles. It is possible to learn about it in the instruction to the device or to look, whether there is a carving before a forward lens. For example, the majority of "soap trays" are just not ready to application of such elements.
Similar picture with application of a blenda which rescues from a lateral flare of a lens in a sunny weather. But if there is an opportunity, it is better for blend to take with itself since it reduces quantity of patches of light.
This set it is possible to manage quite in most cases. Ah and! If you have not a digital device, but film, of course, memory cards and the charger will not be necessary for you, but the stock of a film of a different photosensitivity will be necessary. Quite the set will be enough: 100; 200 and 400 units of ISO, and bigger quantity are necessary hundred parts (100 units), since it in tours where, as a rule, there is no lack of light, the most running, and quality maximum.
Here we also gathered. Everything is ready! Now it is actually possible to start the most interesting.

Quantity of pictures and data carriers

Having arrived into place, most of tourists has an irresistible desire to remove everywhere and everything. On the one hand it well is also very useful. First, it and accumulation of experience which, as we know, does not happen much. Secondly, to receive some good, even not necessarily exhibition shots, it is necessary to remove much. Even professionals cannot brag of the 100th % exceptional photographic material.
Negative side is the equipment here. Because cannot contain a data carrier in itself unlimited number of pictures. And on any device, whether it be it film (where the film comes to an end) or digital (where the carrier has too not boundless number mega-or gigabyte), will come sooner or later the moment when further shooting becomes the impossible. And here, apparently, the film is worse – ended also all. After all you will not erase shots! But it not absolutely so. The film is sold practically everywhere and not really expensively. And here digital carriers where are more expensive. And if you have not really rich budget of a trip, and the small-capacity carrier then it is necessary to choose between two evils is installed in the device. Also I will tell a couple of words about it.
Besides, not always we accept option "to photograph less". And how then to be? Let's ask in this case for the help. No, not to friends, and to settings of your camera. Namely. Look still at houses before a trip, whether memory cards are free. If is not present, then copy files on your computer, and then format memory cards. Format by means of the special menu of the device, but not on the computer! Otherwise your memory cards can be inaccessible. After that, all space of cards becomes available to your creations. It is time.
Two – we come into the menu and we look for a tab where the choice of number of megapixels is carried out. The less you will choose number, the more will enter photos. But quality thus will fall. However if you do not plan, the press of all photos, for viewing in 1 Megapixel will last them for the permission personal computer "for eyes". For example, at card capacity in 1 Gb and the specified permission you will be able to finish shooting about 1700 photos.
But if you plan to print a photo, it is better to increase resolution.
T.o. it is not obligatory to remove constantly with the same permission at all. advises to change permission depending on a situation and the value of the photographed look, so to speak, dynamically to approach a question.
There is also one more option of economy of a place on the digital carrier. Upon return, we will tell in hotel, see the finished shooting material and remove unsuccessful shots.
Important! At manipulations with the camera, be more attentive incidentally not to format a memory card. It will be annoying if such it happens. And precedents such already were, believe me.

Portraits and landscapes

Nature of shooting in many respects is defined by a place of its carrying out. And here business does not come to an end with differentiation on shooting in rooms or outside. A lot of things depend also on character of the trip. For example, shooting of a city landscape if you went, say, to Paris, will strongly differ from sea coasts of Sochi.
I.e. different specifics of subjects of shooting leave a certain mark. But before considering specifics of shooting on typical trips, we will decide on ourselves.
Many put end in itself to include the image in each photo. Like, I was here, and here was, everywhere was. Thereby, without suspecting that, you it spoil all picture. It is necessary to be defined for itself that you want: to remove a beautiful sea landscape or a mediocre portrait against a big pool? Why the portrait mediocre, is asked by you? And it is very simple! To show as much as possible background, you increase a corner of a field of vision of a lens by a maximum, i.e. against the stop towards "W". And the person, i.e. yourself or friends, put further from the camera, we will tell on 3 … 5 m. As a result people turn out small, persons are hardly distinguishable, and a background in sharpness that does the general picture flat. From the point of view of portrait shooting it is marriage. But also as landscape it, alas, too marriage, since. people actually spoil it (already spoke about this in the article "How to Learn It Is Correctly to Photograph", it will be useful to read for understanding of the receptions described below).
Therefore let's agree if you decided to take the good picture, accurately differentiate subject of a picture. I do not call you for refusal of portraits at all. Absolutely, on the contrary, I call for high-quality approach to this business. Remember that all qualitative portraits are carried out largely. A background thus remains not so much and sometimes will not prevent "to wash away" it. At strong degradation of a background plants in a sunlight perfectly look. And here excessively to be fond of effect "side" when shooting against the sea, buildings, monuments, etc. is not necessary. In this case it is necessary to leave "readable" contours. Otherwise you can not guess then that this such. And art value is reached only at the balanced picture.
However it is necessary to avoid (in most cases) completely sharp background in a portrait, what beautiful it would not be.
Try not to remove a portrait frontally i.e. when the person looks directly in a lens – it outdoors is almost inappropriate. Remove at an angle. It will be even better if the person in a shot carries out certain actions.
Старайтесь не снимать портрет фронтально, т.е. когда человек смотрит прямо в объектив – на природе это практически неуместно
And here with sharpness on a landscape not everything is so smooth. Here everything depends on character of this landscape and your taste. Art, of course.
Let's consider typical cases.

Shooting at the sea

Съемка на морском побережье весьма увлекательна
Shooting on the sea coast is very fascinating. And at the sea turn out not only magnificent landscapes, but also excellent portraits. Here good illumination, interesting patches of light from waves and quite dynamic scene.
And we will begin with light. It is known that in days the Sun moves from the East on the West, i.e. from rising on a decline. Will change thus and nature of illumination on a tonality, and also in the direction of shadows. The most disgusting time of day, not only in respect of suntan-obgara is a midday, when the Sun in a zenith. In this case, as we know, shadows disappear. More exact they are, but are directed from top to down that results in unfitness of such light for shooting. If subjects are not so critical to such lighting, here people look terribly. More terribly only when lighting from below up.
Try to shoot at dawn when more yellow prevail tone, or at sunset when everything reddens. By the way, in these cases it is possible to remove the Sun directly.
Попробуйте поснимать на рассвете, когда преобладают более желтые тона...
...или на закате, когда всё краснеет
And now we will talk about the movement.
Gripping show a storm or at least the running foamy waves. But here it is possible to represent them in a picture differently. Here look:
Захватывающее зрелище шторм или хотя бы набегающие пенные волны
Изобразить волны на снимке можно по-разному
In the first case of a wave as if stiffened and everything is visible, to a last straw. In the second – waves are greased that gives them "vivacity".
As you remember, it is reached by "game" with endurance of a lock. The S mode, i.e. an endurance priority, or the manual mode "M" most is suitable for shooting of waves. Waves "come to life" at excerpts "30" (1/30 c) more long. And, on the contrary, become accurate at shorter excerpts.
It is necessary to shoot both so, and so. When the wave becomes worked (not greased), also all splashes become also distinctly visible. It, happens, effectively looks in storm pictures.
By the way, when shootings storm you need the light filter (UV or protective glass). Then it will be possible to approach closer and to gain the greatest effect. But be not fond, differently you risk to get under a wave! After that case your device, most likely, will be disabled.

Photography of sights

Фотографирование достопримечательностей
Here, as a rule, shooting of sights (architecture, etc.), and also shooting in rooms prevails. Let's begin with "interiors".
Shooting in rooms (the museums, exhibitions, etc.) means poor lighting and inconvenience, connected or with small space, or with a large number of people, or than that is worse, with the first and second together. In this case you should be accurater to squeeze into the right place, without having brought down someone, or without having damaged the device, and is even worse – without having stumbled. Here it is better for you to choose completely automatic mode of shooting since not always there will be enough time for manipulations with the camera.
But there is one small nuance in such shootings – not everywhere it is possible to remove with flash. If you before an entrance or in any other place met the poster with an inscription of "NOT FLASH" ("Without flash"), be please polite and disconnect flash.
Yes, but how to remove without it if there is no light? There is no place to disappear. We put the mode "A" – a diaphragm priority, we open it completely. Then we look if the endurance turns out "30" and more long, we increase sensitivity of ISO until the endurance does not become at least "60". At excerpts "30" and more long difficult to receive accurate shots.
It is necessary to do everything as soon as possible since persons interested to make the same enough and they can push you.
On the street all where is simpler. There is a lot of place and light. Unlike sea distances, city landscapes have the following feature. As you understand, buildings are not mobile, and they can be removed at any combinations of endurance and a diaphragm. But again there are nuances.
First, at an arrangement of buildings the cascade (and them it is always possible to arrange so, having chosen the corresponding point of shooting), it is possible and even it is necessary to choose elementary the building necessary to you and to emphasize it in a picture as appropriate. You guessed as? Truly – the small depth of sharpness. Thus sharpness is directed at the necessary building. "Having played" a diaphragm, it is possible to achieve the necessary length of the building. If you remove it here so.
Позиция для фотографирования зданий каскадом
That the building No. 2 necessary to you turned out in sharpness, it is necessary to pick up a certain value of a diaphragm (carries. openings). I.e. if depth of sharpness is small, only the small part of the building No. 2 will be sharp and the impression that it short will be made. If it is more, regions of buildings No. 1 and No. 3 will get to the zone "visibilities".
As already here it was told, shooting of buildings and other immovable constructions can be carried out at any values of endurance and a diaphragm. But everything changes when they come – cars! And the moving car has to move on a photo, but not stiffen for ages. For this purpose besides we resort to the S mode and long excerpts.
The night landscape in this case is especially effective. From a car there will be only strips from headlights and back lamps. But that on it (on strips) the shot did not come to an end, it is necessary to work also a background to what we apply very long excerpts (seconds, and sometimes and minutes), and for this purpose you already need a support which you safely left at home or you do not have it absolutely. How to be? To find any support (a tree, a handrail, a bench, etc.) for the device.

Shooting of mountain landscapes

Съемка горных пейзажей
Well, got into mountains?
When shooting a mountain landscape there are some features. For example, light is very specific. Here all the matter is that mountains create a shadow which is cast to their bottom. At a choice of a foreshortening and a place of shooting it is necessary to consider it. Of course, the direction of a shadow is not so categorical, though is more habitual, if it on the right. And here to become in this shadow and it is not desirable to photograph there at all.
And one more nuance – shooting points. There will be absolutely different impressions of shooting at the foot of the mountain (on the first photo) or at its top (on the second).
Совершенно разные впечатления создаются от съемки у подножия горы...
...и на ее вершине
And also the pictures of the mountain taken directly or under a camera inclination differ. I.e. if the camera to arrange at an angle, a lens up, mountains will seem is higher. If, on the contrary, down, below. By the way, this rule works for any shooting, the same reception it is possible "to grow up" also the person.
Is in mountains and not only in mountains of the river. But shooting of the mountain rivers – business fascinating. Here it is necessary to remember receptions when shooting the sea where we learned how to create effect of the movement or to make water with the splashes which stood.
If water in the river is transparent, it is possible to remove it, including, also from top to down as it flows round stones, snags and other obstacles.
Если вода в реке прозрачна, то можно снимать ее, в том числе, еще и сверху вниз, как она обтекает камни, коряги и прочие препятствия
The river after all is quieter than the sea, and here it is possible to shoot a smooth surface of water, having arranged the camera directly over its surface. Then in pictures you will see all charm of a structure of waves. But is accurater not to allow "to drink" to the device!
Also good results can achieve at morning or evening shooting when patches of light of a sunlight "float" on waves.
And now we will pay a little attention to flora.
If you remove plants, for example, flowers on a lawn, lower below the camera, on the level of these plants. And using the small depth of sharpness, guide focus at the flower which was pleasant to you. In a picture it will be allocated on an indistinct and soft background of other greens.
Если вы снимаете растения, например, цветы на лужайке, то опустите ниже свой фотоаппарат, на уровень этих растений

Some general councils

If you remove an open (general) landscape in the wood, at the sea, etc., try not to allow:
- that the line of the horizon divided a shot horizontally in half. It gives feeling of two pictures on one leaf.
Если вы снимаете открытый (общий) пейзаж в лесу, на море и т.п., то старайтесь не допускать чтобы линия горизонта разделяла кадр горизонтально пополам
The camera not a video camera – it can be inclined safely. Or to find this ill-fated line of the horizon interruption in the form of natural obstacles, the same mountains, for example;
- that trees or other vertical subjects did not "split" a shot from top to a bottom. The effect is gained similar previous, but the shot is divided into a set of parts down.
The same effect should be avoided at city shooting where the shot can "be cut" by columns, etc. constructions. But with it it is simpler, than with the horizon. It is necessary to choose simply correctly the scale that or tops did not leave for the upper edge, or the bases did not plunge for the lower. It is possible both that, and another at once.

Of course, it is not always achievable. For example, at the sea it is very difficult to get rid of the line of the horizon, but it can be directed on a shot diagonal, for example. I.e. whenever possible it is necessary to avoid such flaws.
If you want to remove in the movement when can move not only a subject of shooting, but also you together with the device, it is necessary to hold reliably the device (that it elementary did not drop out, for example, of a train window) and to use excerpts "100" and more.

Remember that you would not remove, to the photo it is necessary to approach as art. Look where the best point of shooting what is better a foreshortening as it is better to show a shooting subject, "having played" with endurance and a diaphragm what is better to use focal length of a lens, etc. I.e. belong first of all creatively.
And finally will remind one more useful thought: the photo is an art of the moment. If you see that that came, remove. Also remove immediately! Qualitative on compositions and a shot, substantial on sense, but with some technical defects it is better, than technically qualitative, but senseless.
From this good advice follows: develop in yourself photographic intuition!
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