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Travel across Nepal

Never End Peace And Love … Nepalese so decipher the name of the country. This small, poor country causes in me inconsistent feelings. In India everything was simpler and more clear. And here … nothing submits to logic clear to the European here, and all here on the contrary. Absolutely poor people seem happier, than who has something …
Never End Peace And Love … Nepalese so decipher the name of the country.
This small, poor country causes in me inconsistent feelings. In India everything was simpler and more clear. And here … nothing submits to logic clear to the European here, and all here on the contrary. Absolutely poor people seem happier, than who has something …
But give everything one after another.

Trip to Nepal

Who and why goes Nepal? Recently this country becomes more and more popular. For whom better than mountains there can be only mountains, go here to trackings. Foreigners go here to look at a slice of Asia. Chinese, Indians and other Asians go to bow to spiritual shrines of the Buddhism and Hinduism. Well and of course, as in any inexpensive country, here a set prazdnoshatayushchikhsya companions from the different countries in which heart infinite music of the road sounds. I also belong to the last category.
I managed to combine very successfully on this trip and bow to shrines, both mountains, and loitering, and, in my opinion, it is ideal option. When you go behind something one – you slip by the so many …
Flight to Nepal happened the Pakistani airlines, and it was remarkable because it was succeeded to live day in Karachi and to swim in the Arabian Sea.
It is possible to fly to Nepal a set of ways – Qatar airlines through Doha – the most expensive and comfortable option; various airlines through Delhi – it is possible to hang for couple of days in India, but do not forget to make the visa before a departure; The Pakistani airlines through Karachi, and on the way back you will spend two nights and the whole day to Karachi – only do not give in on arrangements of the guide to go to bus excursion, and take one of taxi drivers whom will see before hotel, and ask to bring you to the country to a good beach. The sea of pleasure is guaranteed.


Katmandu, the capital of Nepal – the huge city, as if smeared on the valley with the same name. The city does not grow up – only in breadth and if to come around on one of hills in which bowl the valley lies, from above it is possible to see it entirely. And if also to live not in the city, and over it, in the morning you are waited by absolutely inconceivable picture – where last night were at home, streets, people – the wadded blanket of fog lies. The sun slowly rises over the valley, and the blanket slowly slips from hills below and lower to the valley, and from under it come up houses, quarters, cars … morning so begins.

To live not in the city, and over it recommends also because then to you will be, than to breathe. In Katmandu to do it quite difficult, air is filled with ashes from constantly burning garbage and transport and other not most pleasant aromas.
We lived in the most wonderful place – Osho's ashram in the gorge Tapobang, approximately in 10 minutes of a driving from Katmandu. Ashrams – our way monasteries, are also under construction they where there lives either the spiritual teacher, or his the most advanced pupils. Sri Radzhnish Osho's ashrams exist in many countries, but Nepalese – one of the most interesting. It is constructed on powerful "force place", that is in energetically strong place, and to live there very pleasantly even if the esoterics and all mysticism is absolutely alien to you. By the way, even in this case here will be glad to you: in an ashram there are numbers for tourists, it is rather simple to pay for housing. Conditions quite comfortable, in lodges are a hot shower, a civilized toilet and quite cozy rooms. You will only ask to follow the basic rules of behavior in the territory of an ashram – that is not to smoke and not to drink alcoholic drinks, and not too loudly to talk in the dining room. If you an early bird, by all means take the camera and early in the morning wander on neighboring hills. You receive absolutely unforgettable shots and impressions.
During one of such walks I made surprising supervision about life of Nepalese. Early in the morning in the field there was a small group of men, they obviously made some religious practices connected with weather and a crop. Rituals proceeded about half an hour then men left from a field and I thought that everything ended. But here in the field there were women. With mattocks, shovels and other agricultural instruments of labor. Also started plowing, in the most literal sense of this word. Probably, quite so Nepalese realize east theory about the yansky, spiritual beginning of the man and the insky, terrestrial beginning of the woman.

From all travel across Nepal three days quite will be enough for you for Katmandu. During this time you look at all the most interesting and will manage to be tired of this huge noisy and not too pure ant hill with a huge number of beggars, pilferers, charlatans and pseudo-sanyasinov.
Will tell you any guide about the main sights of Katmandu. First of all, it is three temples – a Buddhist mortar Buddanatkh, one of the biggest in the world; the Hindu temple Pashupati-natkh, one of three main shrines of Hinduism in Southeast Asia; and the Buddhist temple on the hill Svayambunatkh – is said that it very ancient and that he is about 2 000 years old. It is called still the Monkey Temple because along a ladder from 300 steps which conducts to the temple, there lives the huge number of monkeys. They very lovely in appearance, but nevertheless advises to be extremely careful – these impudent creations, without reflecting, will pull out at you from hands any package or a bag if suspect of it something food. Do not release to them children – can bite inadvertently.

    Many Hindus come to die in Pashupati as it is considered that then the soul will get at once to paradise. Therefore here incessantly pass cremation is explains not too pleasant smell in all territory of the temple complex.

The area Tamel (Thamel) – a place where it is possible to buy all anything, but the main thing – do not forget to bargain as if it is your last money in life.
There is in the Katmandu center also such interesting place as Kumari Bakhal (Kumari Bahal) – the palace where there lives Kumari Davy – the Virgin Goddess. Pay attention to the palace – all windows are framed with the most skillful woodcarving.

    The history of appearance of Kumari Davy is quite mysterious and foggy, and the third century lasts. According to the "ordinariest" version, one of kings of a dynasty of Mull was obsessed with harmful passion to little girls, and as a result of this passion one of girls died. Then to expiate sins, the king declared other little girl the living goddess and gave it the whole palace. According to other, more romantic version, the king simply played dice from one of goddesses, patronesses of Katmandu, and after his next prize the goddess became angry and threatened to abandon the clients. However then took pity and promised to come back in an image of the little girl.
    Anyway, time in some years gets out the girl from 4 to 10 years of a caste of jewelers, it has to pass some severe tests and prove that it is valid "the living goddess" then she with all family moves to the palace and is shown to people only several times a year. There she lives till the puberty period, then is restored to usual life, and it is replaced by the new Virgin Goddess. Nepalese consider that to marry on being Kumari Davy – unfortunately, and, most likely, the reason here very simple: not to everyone in power to re-educate the goddess spoiled by attention and abundance in the obedient wife.


So, after fluent survey of Katmandu it is possible to make some sorties on neighboring towns. By all means devote one day to Bhaktapur, the city with 8-century history. Thanks to a small amount of cars, it is much more pleasant to walk on foot here, than in Katmandu. Walk to Nyatapol's (Nyatapola temple) temple, the highest in Nepal, devoted to the goddess Lakshmi. It is one of the best examples of traditional Nepalese temple architecture. Other temple – Mahadev Narayan – is an important place for pilgrims. The temple is devoted to Vishnu (he is Narayan), the patron of Bhaktapur.
And directly near an entrance on a main square of the city there is a third temple devoted to Shiva and Parvati (Shiva Parvati Temple) on which walls it is cut out amazing "elephant Kam-Cutra".


It is necessary to tell that guides in Nepal – people very persistent and importunate. Therefore would like to warn the readers: to believe everything that they will tell you, it is impossible – it is necessary to read the guide or to consult on skilled travelers.
For example, one of the most sold excursions – Chitwan National Park. To you will suggest to go with spending the night there, to drive on an elephant and to see a great number of wild animals. In total as for an elephant – an honest truth, you will really pass on him on the jungle, he will bathe in the river and will pour over you from a trunk (according to your desire), and you receive quite good emission of adrenaline if did not ride elephants earlier. And here as for "a great number of wild animals" – here it is necessary to divide at least in two. All tourists who visited Chitvana in eager rivalry told as "round an elephant on bushes something rustled and stamped", and it seemed to all that they see something. However the most skeptically adjusted companions decided that it is local run on bushes, representing rhinoceroses, and in such simple way uphold a reputation of park. Definitely I can tell only one – I did not see the person who would meet in Chitvana the promised wild animals, except for, of course, wild monkeys.

Himalayas and trackings

Of course, the most important, why it is necessary to go to Nepal are mountains. Himalayas. I for the life was in many mountains. But did not see such live mountains anywhere. In the presence even the weakest intuition they are felt as absolutely conscious essence – all-seeing, wise and infinately strong.

To be engaged in that who goes there in spiritual practicians and it is capable to open as the child, the Himalayas give the chance to take a huge step forward. If your soul is obscured, and consciousness omrachneno, be ready to feeling sick and all tests.
Trackings are much offered by the same guides and guides, and it is possible to choose any option, both with the guide, and without it, under any state of health and physical preparation.
The easiest option – National Park Lanthanum (Langtang). There are three routes, the biggest height – 4 100 meters, the lungs, and types are expensive – is not worse, than in other places. In general Lanthanum is even less untwisted, than other routes therefore here more opportunities to get lost there are less than tourists if go without guide.
The most difficult tracking – of course, Everest. warns at once that rise to base camp on 5 000 meters is given not everyone – many evacuate by helicopters because of too rarefied air and non-compliance with rules of behavior in mountains.
    The second name of Everest – Chomolungma – is translated as Divine Mother of Earth.

    Nepalese are amazingly hardy. Typical picture: you go with an easy backpack up uphill, language at you on a shoulder, you desperately want to fall somewhere and not to rise, and here by you with ease of a mountain chamois the granny of years of 70 with a huge heavy basket on shoulders because of which it it is almost not visible rushes, and the granny smiles a toothless mouth and wishes you the good road.
Well, and the most optimum option is Anapurna. The second eight-chiliarch after Everest. The huge mountain ridge is called as this name as top, the stately proud beauty in a snow crown, and.
Trackings on Anapurna exists a little – from 5 days to 2-3 weeks, depending on a way of movement.
All trackings on Anapurna begin in Pokhare where from Katmandu there is a bus or the plane flies.
If your back is expensive to you as memory, advises to give preference to flight by plane, differently you will lose all backbone on the road. Well, and if you were solved on such adventure – get together with a backpack on a roof of the bus and keep more strong. There at least it will be interesting, there will be an air and nobody will go on your head.
On the road – to watch one of entertainments the barefoot boy ticket collector. Full feeling that it – invertebrate creation with suckers on heels. He incessantly scurries about not only on all bus where all sit, lie and stand the friend on the friend, but also on a roof where too constantly there are new passengers. While the bus goes on not too wide mountain road with a set of turns, this boy ten times manages to slip from salon on a roof and back through a partly-closed door, and to check all and all. This representation of quite adequately separate payment, but is good that Nepalese so far before did not guess.
Track routes pass through small mountain small villages where it is possible to spend the night. The hotel is, of course, is loudly told, but you will have a roof over the head. Generally it is family "enterprises", that is the small guest house on some numbers where there lives also the family owning it. Mountain people are very friendly and pleasant, on contrast with inhabitants of the capital – as, however, and everywhere. Tiny rooms for guests are divided by plywood partitions, windows are driven usually in – that was warmer (the truth, not really helps). From furniture – only beds, at best one chair or couple of nails to hang up things. The electricity was not as a month before our travel there was a collapse and tumbled down columns. A toilet on the street, in the same place and a column with cold water. I was lucky to appear in the most interesting place of one of such hotels – in kitchen. Purity and neatness pleasantly pleased an eye, and the genuine hospitality of owners warmed heart. I saw as they bake bread as prepare as communicate … I very much wanted to remain and live there, among these people, but, unfortunately, I was not free in time.
In a peak point of my tracking, at the height of 2 000 meters, the first that I saw – there was a blue building of hotel with an inscription in Russian "Welcome". At first I decided that I began hallucinations, but the inscription was real.
There, above, even there was an electricity, and below in the general drawing room dining room there was the real furnace where tourists of the most different nationalities got warm, dried and greedily shared impressions. Some especially sensitive the pleasure was spoiled by the big black cockroaches reaching for heat it is not less people, but with them it was necessary to be reconciled.


Pokhara is the city jazz. In a different way you will not tell. After vanity and Katmandu dust there is a wish to live at least week here. It costs on the bank of the huge lake, and in a sunny weather all ridge of Anapurna is visible. Here the quiet weakened atmosphere of the resort town reigns. A set of little shops and cafes, and in shops it is possible to lease any tourist equipment for tracking. It is very convenient if there is no wish as a snail to drag on itself across all Nepal sleeping bags, heavy warm clothes and footwear.
On the lake it is possible to drive on the boat and to come on the island where there is a small temple and there lives the huge number of pigeons.


Is in Nepal also such mysterious, legendary place – the Mustang. This area – the unknown and, seemingly, that thanks to it here still remained pristineness of traditions and human purity. Till 1992 the Principality the Mustang was absolutely closed for tourists. Now it is the territory of Nepal.
Spirits of the Himalayas so carefully protect it from invasions, what even you will not find in the usual guide of Lonely Planet about it any information. If you were interested by this place, recommends to look for information on him in the special release devoted so-called to "responsible tracking" (responsible trekking) that is when people know where and why they go and properly to behave there where they will come.
The mustang – the most mountain area of Nepal also shares it on two parts – top and lower. Any tourist, and here can come to the lower to pass in top, it is necessary to lay out for resolution of $700 for each person.
In the Mustang, especially top, the real Tibetan culture is brightly felt and there are most interesting and strong temples.
Many people involved in spiritual practicians call this place the World Roof.

Useful information

It is best of all to go to Nepal or in the spring, in April-May, or in the fall, in October-November. There are rains, in the winter rather cold in the summer.
Flight by the Pakistani airlines – the most budgetary option will also cost approximately $1000.
The visa to Nepal is made out directly on arrival in the country, be ready to pay for it $30.

Hotels of Katmandu:
Ashram Osho Tapoban: numbers from $12.
The budgetary hotels in Katmandu: from $3, the average level – $10-15.
The best hotels – Dwarika's from $155, Soaltee Crowne Plaza from $180.

Flight of Katmandu-Pokhara will cost approximately $80.
The bus – about $8.

Hotels in Pokhare:
The best hotel – Fish Tail Lodge, from $110.
But it is possible to find also very cozy budgetary hotels with good views of mountains from $15.
The most budgetary options – from $4.

Helicopter hour walk over the Himalayas – $100.

If at you is superfluous days 10, Nepal is very well combined with the Kingdom of Bhutan … But it already another story altogether.
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