First of all it would be desirable to tell about history of emergence of a snowboard briefly …
In 1965 a certain Sherman Popper patented a board under the name a snyorfer (snurfer).
Nevertheless, inventors of this board as much then the idea to put a board on snow came could not call it. This board had appearance with the rubber surface pasted from above that feet did not slide off. I.e. it was not similar to present snowboards at all. Snyorfera became extremely popular, their huge number was sold. As a turning point it is possible to consider 1979 – Jake Carpenter Burton came to snyorf-competitions, having taken with himself a board of own design. It was longer, wider, and the most important – on it there were fastenings for feet which allowed to operate a board. Also this board had an edging – the metal fringing of a board intended for the best maneuvering.
Snowboarding can be considered as very young sport – a little more than 20 years.
Styles of driving
Correctly to choose a snowboard, it is necessary to solve for himself as well as where you are going to ride.
Freestyle (Freestyle) – performance of tricks, driving in a half-paypa (a stage from snow).
Freeride (Freeride) – means driving without restrictions – simply descent, jumps or descent from the mountain.
Frikarv (Freecarve) is a downhill racing from the mountain, where a main objective – abrupt "cut" turns.
From here also there was a division into rigid and soft snowboards – depending on what style of driving you for yourself will choose.
Rigid snowboards exist two types:
- boards for a frikarv, i.e. for driving out of the route on well-groomed slopes of mountains;
- and sports boards (for slalom).
Soft snowboards are used by those who prefers freestyle and freeride.
The important role in a difficult choice of a snowboard is played by a board form.
The board for freestyle has a form the twin type (twin-tip). At it both ends are rounded equally off and have identical length.
The board for freeride has the directed form (directional): at it one nose is longer than another.
Besides, it is possible to recommend universal boards of All-Mountain which it is possible to ride on any relief. Them it is possible to ride, as well as the route, and in a snouparka or in a half-paypa, they are intended both for freestyle, and for freeride. They have various length of forward and back part, and also small rigidity.
For a frikarv special boards, longer and narrow are necessary. Also they have other geometry. This style of driving is very not widespread.
The second important criterion in a snowboard board choice – its size. It is the board length depending on your growth and weight. The more growth and weight – the more long the board is necessary. Most often complete with a board there is a table of sizes. But it is simpler to ask nevertheless the sales assistant, what size is necessary to you.
In case, for example, your weight is slightly more, than standard with your growth or it is a little more than growth, than standard with your weight, InfoAdvisor.net recommends to take a board of centimeters 5-10 longer.
Long boards are most often more convenient for driving on deep snow, i.e. in style freeride. At high speeds they cope better, but demand much more big efforts for driving.
I will provide the table of approximate sizes for style of driving of Freeride:
|Your weight (kg) / your growth (cm)||150 - 165||165 - 175||175 - 185||185 and more|
|40 - 50||135||145||150||155|
|50 - 60||145||145||155||160|
|60 - 75||150||155||155||160|
|75 and more||155||160||160||165 and more|
For style of driving of Freestyle the size suitable you is recommended to be reduced by 5 centimeters.
At rigid snowboards for a frikarv and slalom of business are a little on another: for each concrete board the table of sizes is made.
Huge value at a choice of a snowboard plays material of the sliding surface on which directly depends, how fast you will disperse and what maximum speed you will be able to gather on a snowboard. There are some types of a skolzyak.
The first – graphite (consists almost completely of graphite). It is the fastest and slippery surface. But possesses essential minus – it too soft therefore very quickly becomes useless. It is used usually on the best snowboards since it is very expensive material.
The second type is a polyethylene with graphite addition. It is the most widespread type of the sliding surface since has the quite good sliding properties and it is durable.
The third type, the cheapest – simply polyethylene. Such types of a skolzyak very long live, but, naturally, high-speed indicators are lower, than at the first two.
Board speed strongly depends on processing of the sliding surface – it smear with the ointments and paraffin suitable under temperature on the street and weather conditions. I recommend to give at once a board to service – there to you it will be smeared with paraffin (in services usually put universal for any temperatures).
The following characteristics of a snowboard are not key, but It is necessary to tell about them:
- Board width. It is recommended to choose a board so narrow as far as it is possible but so that boots did not get out for edge of a board more than on 1-1,5sm. Than the board is wider, especially it will keep on snow steady, but thus it will be more difficult to be operated. The choice remains for you that to you it is more important: management or stability. On some boards there is a designation of "Wide". Such boards are recommended to people with big sizes of footwear (more 45th size).
- Board weight. Important that the board was not too heavy, differently it will be difficult to be transferred (to rise by a slope, for example) and will jump on it not absolutely conveniently. Upon of a snowboard can use such rule: to lift one hand for a nose – if can lift, so the board approaches.
- Contact length. It is length of that part of a board which directly adjoins to snow. Than it is shorter, easier the board is operated by that, the more – the better the board keeps on snow. Here too everyone chooses under himself, I will tell only that I like boards with a small contact length more.
- And, at last, the fourth – rigidity. Softer board can smooth roughnesses in a landing, but as it was already told, it badly will behave at great speed. Rigid, on the contrary, perfectly behaves at a speed, but practically does not soften and does not smooth the wrong landing. I will advise to take something average.
In general, as it was already told, rigid snowboards are used for a frikarv and sports driving. Sports boards are intended either for slalom, or for giant slalom (they are longer and they have a bigger radius of turn). These boards have big rigidity in comparison with boards for a frikarv.
It should be noted that it is impossible to ride a rigid snowboard with soft fastenings and boots, style of driving such is that rigid fastenings will unambiguously be necessary. An essence of rigid fastenings that they strong fasten a boot a metal framework, a nose and a heel of a boot just as it is on skis. It gives the chance more accurately to operate a snowboard.
Soft snowboards have no narrow focus on any style of driving. On them it is possible how to ride on not well-groomed slopes (on chubby snow) – freeride (Freeride), and to jump from springboards, to ride in a snouparka and in a half-paypa – freestyle (Freestyle).
The boards intended for freeride are a little more rigid, than for freestyle. For driving on not well-groomed hillsides it is best of all – a board for freeride. Besides, that it has big rigidity, usually even more long, and the center of gravity is displaced a little back that does not allow a board to roll in deep snow. If you want and to drive on hillsides and, for example, to jump from springboards, the universal board of All-Mountain (freeride freestyle) is necessary for you. And if you want to jump simply and to mountains you does not pull, I advise to take a board for freestyle.
Upon purchase of a board of InfoAdvisor.net advises attentively to examine it: whether there are no chips anywhere, the exfoliating parts or the exfoliating edgings. Otherwise there is a chance to take the rejected board.
After each driving, the board should be wiped any fabric in order to avoid a rzhavleniye of edgings.
Fastenings of a snowboard
The choice of a snowboard is not limited only to purchase of a board, besides you should pick up at once the corresponding fastenings. Fastenings there are some types:Soft fastenings
The most often found fastenings. Represent plastic (or even more often meet metal) a plate, with haybeky (it is the back supporting a foot), and with several thongs on treshchetka.
Such fastenings cost an average from $100 to $200. Good firms – Rossignol, Santa Cruz.Rigid fastenings
They are used by those who chose for himself frikarv. Complete with such fastenings there are rigid boots reminding alpine skiing, but more free in respect of movement. The principle of fastening same as well as at skis – the nose and a heel of a boot are fixed. It is the most expensive type of fastenings.Fastenings of Step-in (step-in)
It fastenings which are clasped as soon as you step a boot on them. They can help very much beginners who too long clasp and undo fastenings.
It is important that boots completely approached such fastenings. The cost of such fastenings is about $200.
Upon purchase it is necessary to check at once, whether fastenings approach a board (can not approach). Better that fastenings put at once at you in shop.
In principle, any person can put fastenings, for this purpose the screw-driver and sometimes some six-sided keys only is required. Usually fastening is kept by four screws located in the form of a square, but happens and in a different way (for example, at Burton – 3 screws in the form of a triangle). Fastenings of Burton usually approach only Burton boards (because of the unusual method of fixing).
It is necessary to define – in what rack to you more convenient to ride. And depending on it ahead there has to be this or that foot (right ahead – Goofy rack, left ahead – Regular rack). Distance between fastenings usually approximately equally in distance from a knee to foot of your foot. Also it is necessary to be defined, under what corner to put fastenings. On the main platform of fastenings there is a scale for installation of an angle of rotation. It has values from 0 degrees (fastenings stand perpendicular to a board) to 90 degrees (fastenings are directed along a board) Usually for a start put 15-18 degrees for a forward foot and 9-10 for the back. But for each person it is necessary to pick up the corners with which it is more convenient to it to ride.
Recently even more often producers of boards displace openings under fastenings back. It becomes in order that the board had smoother course and did not sink in deep snow. Depending on rigidity and a form of a board, the size of shift can be different.
Boots for a snowboard
It is natural that special boots also will be necessary for you for driving on a snowboard. Their choice also in many respects is defined by style of driving, but comfort and quality it is not less important at all.Soft boots
are those boots which as I already spoke, are intended for styles freestyle (Freestyle) and freeride (Freeride), and for the first style they have to be softer.
To choose convenient boots for a snowboard very important and not so simply. It is necessary that the boot accurately fixed your foot, the heel should not come off a boot, fingers should not rest, it has to be convenient to a foot. But I ask to notice that it nevertheless boots for a snowboard, but not bedroom-slippers, and on the present will not be convenient in them. Boots for Freestyle style have to be softer, than for Freeride.
Soft boots can be either unary, or double (with an internal boot). It is very inconvenient to dry unary boots that you will not tell about the double. Recently the majority of boots go double, i.e. with the taking-out vnutrennik.
More and more boots with a termovnutrennik, made of the material "Termoplast" began to appear. When heating they "remember" a shape of your foot that promotes more convenient wearing boots. For this purpose it is necessary to resemble simply about an hour per them, for example, on the house, and then to remove them and not to dress their some time.Rigid boots
are intended for a carving and slalom. They are arranged more difficult than the soft – the external boot is made of plastic, and an internal boot – soft and usually taking out. As well as in soft boots, the internal boot can be made of "Termoplast". InfoAdvisor.net pays your attention that the more on a boot of fasteners (clips), the your foot in a boot will be better to keep. On these boots, as well as on alpine skiing, also there is a switch between driving and walking facilitating walking. In good boots is also available adjustments of rigidity, raising of a heel.
The cost of normal boots varies from 100 to $250. Very many try to save on boots and to use already available . It CAN not be done! They will not approach as boots have to provide freedom in a place of a bend of an anklebone for a snowboard not only in the direction back and forth, but also to the left-to the right.
So how many can cost a normal snowboard set? The cheapest boards stand around $150-200. But I nevertheless will recommend to take a board around $250-300 as cheaper boards will live at most one season. InfoAdvisor.net can recommend boards of Santa Cruz, Rossignol, Factory, Burton.
So, the price of a normal board – about $250, the price of good fastenings – about $100 and the same cost of boots. I.e. all set comes approximately to $450. Yes, of course, it is possible to buy cheaper, but such set will hardly possess quality and convenience.
Besides I want to notice that at any good shop surely there is a competent consultant capable to explain things, unclear for you, and to pick up the most suitable configuration.